Post - Everyday Travel Guides

by Rebecca Hollman
updated April 4, 2019

Surfing in Bocas del Toro, Panama

Bocas del Toro is an island chain located off the Caribbean side of Panama. Arguably one of the best surf spots in Panama, it draws in tons of surfers every year. Bocas has great surf, great snorkeling, a good party vibe, and lots of places to eat and stay. Bocas is home to a wide variety of waves and is good for many different types of surfers. Some of the main surf spots in Bocas can get crowded but there are infinitely many untapped gems that exist in Bocas, you just have to put in some more effort to get there.

BEST TIME TO SURF IN BOCAS: The wave season in Bocas is December to April. This also coincides with a large part of the dry season and therefore is a very crowded time in Bocas. The waves in Bocas can get super crowded, especially when people have water taxis drop them off in the water. Be prepared for lots of other people in the water. Since Bocas is a party town, a lot of people don’t get into the water until 9 or 10 AM. If you want uncrowded waves in the most popular spots, you will need to be in the water early - say 6 AM. Otherwise, you can get a guide to bring you to some unnamed spots where there will likely be not another person in sight. The rest of the year the waves are really not ideal for surfing and neither is the weather.

Table of Contents

Surfing on Isla Colón

Paunch: Playa Paunch is not quite your typical beach - with no sand to lay on and reef all along the ocean floor that makes it impossible to walk or swim. However, it redeems itself with it’s surf. This is arguably the best spot, and most popular spot, to surf in Bocas. On small swells, it’s an easy wave to surf but getting in and out of the water is hard because you need to find a way through the reef. On big swells, only good surfers should attempt to surf there. When it’s a small day, anywhere between 2 to 5 feet, this is a good place for beginners - just wear booties or expect for your feet to get shredded. There are also strong rip tides here and certain current channels that will take you out and in of the surf break. Only confident and knowledgeable swimmers should try to surf here, regardless of swell size. A lot of people have boats drop them off directly in the water so they don’t have to get in and out on the reef.
Bluff: Playa Bluff is the biggest beach on Colón. The beach itself is over 5 miles in length and it feels like you could keep walking on it forever. However, Playa Bluff is NOT a swimming beach. The waves crash in only 3 feet of water - so extremely close to the shore. These waves are heavy and powerful and the buffer zone is generally right where people get in to just wade around or play in the water. The rip tides and currents here are also very aggressive and so it is easy to get swept out to sea. A handful of tourists drown here each year. If you are a good surfer and the swell is smaller, then you could go for a surf at Bluff. However, Bluff is known as a board breaker since the waves are crashing pretty much directly onto the sand of the sea floor. I would only surf at Bluff is you are at least an intermediate level surfer. However, because it is a fast closing out beach break, Bluff is an amazing place for body boarders.
Dumpers: Dumpers is a left point break that has really sharp, shallow reef. It is located just to the left of Paunch. However, surf at your own risk because it’s a local spot and they may kick you out.

Surfing on Isla Carenero

Black Rock: Black Rock is perfect for beginners because it is a super soft, foamy wave that never gets steep. It’s a mountain that just crumbles so it’s good for long boards and beginners. You need to have a boat driver drop you off at the spot, so you should feel comfortable being in deep water. It can get a bit crowded because lots of beginners and boats are going there all day. It’s a reef break, but deep reef, and is both left and right handed (although the right hand is more consistent).
Punta Carenero: This is the most famous spot in Bocas. The wave is really long and splits at some point so the crowd gets spread out at least. But this spot gets crowded. This is a left hand point break that barrels. The paddle out can be pretty difficult and long, with sharp reef all the way in and out. This spot is for intermediate and advanced surfers, not beginners.

Surfing on Isla Bastimentos

Wizard Beach: Wizard is hard to get to. It’s on the far side of Bastimentos, and you have to walk across the island via a trail from Old Bank to access the beach. There is no accommodation on Wizard Beach so you will have to walk over with your board about 45 minutes. Because of this, it’s never ever crowded. Unfortunately, the waves are pretty inconsistent and you should try to go in the early morning. The rip tides here are very strong. It’s not the best place to surf but will definitely be the least crowded.
Red Frog Beach: Pretty much the exact same conditions as Wizard Beach. Slightly better because there is reasonably priced accommodation on Red Frog so you can wake up in your hotel/hostel and go out for a quick surf or to check and see what it looks like. You don’t need to walk anywhere with your board, you can just go straight out of your room.

Surfing Other Places in Bocas

Silverback: Silverback is a world-class wave for Big League Surf. It’s a huge slab, like HUGE. Only pros with huevos should surf this wave. It’s only on when there is really big swell, otherwise it doesn’t exist.
Unnamed spots: There are a few secret spots located throughout Bocas. If you really want to find your own spot with no one else around, you might be able to charter a sail boat to take you to some spots. However, this will be an expensive excursion but most likely worth it.