Tips For Traveling in Bocas del Toro - What to Know Before You Go
by Rebecca Hollman
updated March 24, 2019
Bocas del Toro, Panama
Bocas del Toro is an island chain located off the northern coast of Panama in the Caribbean. Technically Bocas del Toro is a province of Panama and covers a wider section of northwestern Panama, but when most people refer to Bocas del Toro they are referring to the island chain. The area is known for its biodiversity, bright blue water, snorkeling and diving opportunities and for it’s laid back Caribbean vibes. Colón is the main island of Bocas, with most of the hotels and restaurants located on this island. Bocas Town, the “capital” of Bocas is on Colón and this is also where the airport is located. I spent two months working and living in Bocas and compiled everything I learned about the area to make an ultimate guide to Bocas del Toro for you.
Table of Contents
What to Know
LANGUAGE: The language of Panama is Spanish. However, because Bocas is a tourist destination, a lot of the locals (mostly locals involved in tourism) can speak English. I would highly recommend trying to learn at least basic Spanish before traveling to Central America. Being able to order at a restaurant, or ask for the right bus, etc. will take you very far.
CURRENCY/BANKS/ATM: The currency of Panama is technically a Balboa, but it is exactly equivalent to the US Dollar. Everywhere in Panama accepts US Dollars and it is very rare to see Balboas (except sometimes with coins). There is no need to exchange your money for Balboas. ATMs (cajeros automaticos) seem to be in short supply in Panama. However, there is one bank/ATM in Bocas Town. I would suggest trying to get out a decent amount of cash. A few restaurants and hotels take credit cards, but for the most part cash is still king in Panama. Expect to pay for all your tours and most your food in cash.
WEATHER: Bocas is a tropical jungle. Expect rain. Bocas technically has rainy and dry seasons but they alternate between rainy and dry more than once per year. Now with global warming, the seasons have become pretty unpredictable so it’s best to just expect at least some rain. The nice thing about the rain in Bocas, is that it usually comes at night. Night time consists of heavy downpours but it usually blows off by early morning and you have the whole day of sunshine to do activities.
GETTING AROUND: Getting around is different on every island. Colón is the only island with roads so you can either take a taxi or a bicycle to get around. Renting a bike costs around $10-15 per day and taking a taxi from Bocas Town to Paunch/Bluff is around $3-8 each way. Colón also has colectivos (or shared vans) that run from town to Starfish Beach and from town to Playa Bluff. To get to the other islands, you will need to take a water taxi (prices range depending on where you are going). There are a handful of water taxi “stations” in Bocas Town and they all have the same prices for each set destination. Getting around on other islands is not really a thing. You would usually go from town directly to whatever spot you are visiting on another island by water taxi, and then be picked up again by water taxi. There are no roads on any of the other islands, but in a few cases there are some walking trails.
SAFETY: For the most part, Panama is safe. Bocas is no exception but you just need to be conscious of yourself. If you are walking around at night visibly drunk, then someone may pick pocket you, etc. Just don’t be stupid. And if you rent a bike, always lock it to something when you leave it somewhere.
How to Get There
FROM PANAMA CITY: There are three options to get from Panama City to Bocas.
Option 1 is to fly via Panama Air. They do direct flights that land on Isla Colón and are about $100-150 one way. This is by far the most convenient option and will save you 10 hours of traveling on a bus, but it is also the most expensive.
The second option is to take the overnight bus. This bus goes directly from Panama City to Almirante with no stops. After dropping you at the Almirante bus station, you will need to take a taxi (or walk) to the boat transfer point. From there, you will take a water taxi from Almirante across to Bocas Town. The water taxi price is included in your bus ticket, but the taxi from the bus station IS NOT. This bus trip costs $35 and takes 10 hours in total. This is an excruciatingly long bus ride and you will most likely not get sleep even though the bus is overnight. Also, be forewarned - the keep this bus cold! I was wearing a sweatshirt, pants and had a blanket and was still cold. You need to go to the Albrook Mall bus station to buy tickets and get on the bus. There is a booth labeled Bocas del Toro on the first floor where you will purchase your ticket.
The third option is to take local buses. I have never done this option myself but it would involve getting a bus from Panama City to Santiago, Santiago to David and then David to Almirante - finished by taking a water taxi from Almirante to Bocas. This is the cheapest option, with each bus probably only costing $5, but is the most complicated and most time consuming. They pack the local buses with so many people that sometimes 20 people are standing in the center aisle, along with a box of chickens and a kitten in someone’s bag. I would not suggest this option unless you feel comfortable speaking in Spanish.
FROM SAN JOSE: There are no flights that go from San Jose to Bocas anymore so you’re pretty much stuck with a tourist shuttle transfer. There are tons of companies that do shuttles from Bocas to San Jose, Costa Rica for around $30. My favorite company is Caribe Shuttles, who even help you with the border crossing. Total travel time from Bocas to San Jose is about 10 hours including the border crossing.
What to Do There
1. ISLAND TOUR OF ZAPATILLA: The islands of Zapatillas are the most beautiful things in all of Bocas. You need to spend at least one of your days in Bocas going to these two pristine white sand islands. The easiest way to get to Zapatillas is to go on an organized tour but you can also arrange your own water taxi. These tours usually have a handful of spots they stop besides just Zapatillas – including Sloth Island, snorkeling at Cayo Coral, and Starfish Island. Besides snorkeling at one of the best spots in Bocas, you will get to spend three hours enjoying the remote, uninhabited islands of Zapatillas. Spend some time walking around the entire island and also just enjoy lounging on the white sand.
2. STARFISH BEACH: Starfish Beach is on the far side of the island of Colón, but it is worth the trip. Most everyone stays to the Bluff side of Colón, but the crystal blue waters of Starfish draw people to the other side of this relatively large island. Although it is called Starfish Beach and there are some starfish there in the water, don’t expect there to be thousands of starfish around. However, the water is insanely blue here and also perfectly calm (versus the aggressive waves on the other side of the island). Because of that, this is the nicest swimming beach on Colón. Going to Starfish Beach, Playa Boca del Drago and the Bat Caves (La Gruta) would make a great day on Bocas.
3. PLAYA BLUFF: Playa Bluff is the biggest beach on Colón and probably the most accessible. The beach itself is over 5 miles in length and it feels like you could keep walking on it forever. Bluff has easily the best sand because of its big beach area to lay on and because of the vibrant orange color of the sand. The contrast of the green palm trees right along the edge, the orange of the sand, and the bright blue of the water really is something to see. Bluff is not a swimming beach because of the strong rip tides but it is a great beach to lay out on and to spend the day in the sun or walking up and down the long stretch of coast.
4. RED FROG: Red Frog is a long stretch of beach on the eastern side of Isla Bastimentos. Unlike other beaches on Bastimentos, there are many hotels, hostels and restaurants scattered along Red Frog Beach. Many people spend a couple of nights at a hotel on Red Frog while they are in Bocas. The waves and currents here are still pretty aggressive, like most places in Bocas, but you can still swim at this beach. There is also a chance to surf at Red Frog depending on the swell. This is a great beach to spend the day in the sun and water, with the opportunity to walk to a restaurant and grab a smoothie or a bite to eat.
There are infinitely more things to do in Bocas besides these top 4 I’ve listed above. Learn more about everything to do broken down by island on my island posts and also the perfect one week itinerary for Bocas del Toro.
The Best Things To Do On Isla Colón
The Best Things To Do On Isla Bastimentos
The Best Things To Do On the Outer Islands of Bocas
The Perfect One Week Itinerary for Bocas del Toro
Where to Stay
I’m going to preface this section by saying I highly suggest you don’t stay in Bocas Town. Bocas Town is loud, dirty and just generally not that appealing. The only reason to stay in town is if you like to go out and party every night and need to be walking distance from the bars. The islands of Bocas del Toro are beautiful and Bocas Town does nothing to justify that. I would HIGHLY suggest staying on another island besides Colón or at least staying farther up on Colón towards Paunch or Bluff. Or split your time up with some days on Colón and some days on another island.
HOSTELS:
Selina (Bocas Town or Red Frog) - Selina knows their sh*t. They have amazing branding and social media presence and have pretty much taken over Central and South America by storm. The rooms and dorms are very well decorated and they have ample work space, decent wifi, and a fully equipped restaurant and kitchen. The only down side is that it is popular and is therefore always full with backpackers, especially ones that like to party. I’m pretty sure Selina itself makes the party leave around 11 PM, but people are pre-gaming their night out at this hostel. If you want somewhere quiet and tranquilo, I would not recommend a Selina.
Skully’s - Skully’s is just as nice as Selina and since it is not in Bocas Town, it has way less of a party vibe. Plus, it literally has such an amazing outdoor setup with a slack line, a ping pong table, a pool, a fire pit, a full bar and restaurant, a pool table, a strip of beach and tons of beach chairs and swings and hammocks to chill on.
MID RANGE/GUESTHOUSE:
Palmar - This hostel and mid range hotel is located on Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos. It has private teepees on the beach, dorm rooms and an amazing restaurant with fresh and healthy food.
Nomad Tree Lodge - Nomad calls itself an “adult summer camp” with its private rooms located in the trees connected by rope bridges. This is an eco-lodge that runs on collected rainwater and is located higher up in the jungle on Isla Colón.
Bambuda Lodge - Bambuda Lodge is located on Bastimentos and has dorms and private rooms. It has an amazing pool overlooking the ocean and also has a water slide that lets you slide from the hotel to the ocean. The water around Bambuda Lodge is bioluminescent at night.
UPSCALE/HIGH-END:
Tranquilo Bay - This all inclusive eco-lodge is literally a slice of heaven. It features freshly prepared breakfast, lunch and dinner, your own personal guide for your trip, and opportunities for jungle walks, kayaking and snorkeling trips. It is located along an area of Bastimentos that you would never otherwise be able to explore.
Island Plantation - This hotel is located on Playa Bluff, far away from the bustle of Bocas Town. It is pretty much the only hotel located on Bluff and offers luxurious rooms, a pool, a full restaurant, and a hang out bar and area on the northern stretch of Bluff where very few people ever make it to.
Where to Eat
Oh Toro Ramen and Sushi - Amazing sushi, ramen bowls and bubble tea. A bit more on the expensive side but worth it for the service, the quality of food, and how fast the food is prepared. Accepts credit cards.
Om Indian - A small Indian restaurant located right on the water. Awesome curries and plenty of vegetarian options. Make sure to get a chai tea and kulfi for dessert.
Cafe del Mar - A tiny restaurant but with the best food in town. This is a gourmet experience in extremely humble settings. Open for breakfast and for dinner with different menus. The food is amazing but I would try Amaretto or Sweet Love for coffee. Make sure to try the gallo pinto breakfast burrito.
Amaretto - Right next door to Cafe del Mar, this place has real coffee. They also have an extensive food menu with lots of stuff for under $5. They also do home pressed juices that they bottle and have for sale.
Sweet Love - Has an amazing variety of teas and coffee. More for relaxing and having a coffee than for eating real food. They have a food menu with crepes but it is all pretty light. Try the iced chai tea frappe or one of their 30+ options of teas.
