by Rebecca Hollman
updated June 12, 2019

Santa Catalina, Panama

Santa Catalina is a small surf town on the Pacific side of Panama. It is a pretty remote town, with not many facilities. But what it lacks in terms of conveniences, it makes up in vibes and surf. It is also the jumping off point for the iconic Isla Coiba and the Coiba National Marine Park. The diving and snorkeling here is not to be missed!

Going to paradise always requires a little bit of planning. Learn everything you need to know about Santa Catalina here - including what to do, where to stay and where to eat.

What to Know

LANGUAGE: The language of Panama is Spanish. Because Santa Catalina is not a popular tourist town, not many locals speak English. I would highly recommend trying to learn at least basic Spanish before traveling to Central America. Being able to order at a restaurant, or ask for the right bus, etc. will take you very far. There are a good amount of surfers and expats that live in Santa Catalina so a handful of people might speak English.

CURRENCY/BANKS/ATM: The currency of Panama is technically a Balboa, but it is exactly equivalent to the US Dollar. Everywhere in Panama accepts US Dollars and it is very rare to see Balboas (except sometimes with coins). There is no need to exchange your money for Balboas. ATMs (cajeros automaticos) seem to be in short supply in Panama. There is no ATM in Santa Catalina. I would suggest trying to get out a decent amount of cash beforehand in either Panama City, Santiago or Davíd (both of which have ATMs). A very, very small amount of restaurants and hotels take credit cards, but for the most part cash is still king in Panama. Expect to pay for all your tours and most your food in cash.

WEATHER: Santa Catalina is a beach town on the Pacific coast of Panama. Expect dry, hot weather during the dry season with almost no rain and daily highs of 95 degrees Fahrenheit. In Santa Catalina, the wet season is overcast, the dry season is partly cloudy, and it is hot and oppressive year round. Over the course of the year, the temperature typically varies from 72°F to 86°F and is rarely below 70°F or above 100°F.

GETTING AROUND: The easiest way to get around is definitely with a rental car - the roads are adequate so a small car is totally fine. Santa Catalina is spread out in one line from Playa Catalina to Playa Estero, making it too far to really walk from one end of the town to the other. If you rent a bike, it would probably be feasible to go back and forth. You could also stick to one side of the town and keep everything walking distance if you don’t have a car. There are a few taxis here and there but for the most part there are not many taxis or colectivos in this town. Another thing to note is that there is no gas station in this town and the closest one is in Soná, which is about 28 miles away. There is one small dive shop down by the marina that sells gas in small quantities if you are really desperate but I highly advise filling up completely before passing Soná on the way to Santa Catalina.

SAFETY: For the most part, Panama is safe. Santa Catalina is no exception but you just need to be conscious of yourself. If you are walking around at night visibly drunk, then someone may pick pocket you, etc. Just don’t be stupid. The smaller, less touristy towns are actually safer. Santa Catalina is a pretty laid-back destination for surfers and scuba divers and doesn’t really have a party vibe so it might be even safer than other tourist destinations.

How to Get There

Santa Catalina is about an hour and a half drive Southwest from Santiago. Whether you are coming from Panama City or David, you will travel through Santiago. Santa Catalina is a five to six hour drive from Panama City’s Tocumen International Airport and a four to five hour drive from David. The roads have recently been paved up to the edge of Santa Catalina, making 4 wheel drive no longer a requirement. If you are driving to Santa Catalina, the most difficult part is making the correct turns in Santiago. The guide books are inaccurate and signage is poor off of the Transamerica highway. For the best information available, see the Santa Catalina Beach website. It includes pictures of the signs and landmarks for the turns.

FROM PANAMA CITY:

BY CAR:
Exiting Panama City via the Bridge of the Americas, follow the Pan-American Highway west to Santiago de Veraguas for around 240 kilometers (150 miles) from Panama City.

Upon entering Santiago make a left turn at the Shell/Delta gas station (across the street from the El Pyramidal Hotel and bus station) turning onto Avenida Central, driving towards a white cathedral. As you approach the cathedral, stay to its left then immediately turn right after you pass it. Turn left in two blocks, following the signs to Soná, located another 47 kilometers (29 miles) away.

Before entering the town of Soná, make a left turn at the Shell/Delta gasoline station. You will see signs directing you towards Santa Catalina. If you enter the town of Soná you have gone too far. After about 45 km (28 Miles), in the small village of Los Tigres you will find another sign directing you to turn left towards Santa Catalina.

Driving from Panama City to Santa Catalina will take about five hours and will cover a distance of around 400 kilometers (250 miles).

BY BUS:

Catch a taxi from your hotel or Tocumen international airport to Albrook Bus Terminal.

At Albrook Bus Terminal take one of the five daily buses on the Transporte San Isidrio bus line departing to Soná (Duration 4 hours). The current schedule has departures from Albrook to Soná at 5:50 am, 8:20am, 10:20am, 12:45pm, 2:20pm , 03:15pm,  4:20pm and 5:45pm.

At Albrook Bus Terminal you can also take a direct bus to Santiago.  Schedules are more frequent all day and night. All bus services going to David will stop in Santiago. In Santiago change to the local bus terminal (taxi $2.00), and catch the bus to Sona (last bus is at 6.00pm every 30mins).  You could even spend the night in Santiago.

From Soná take one of the five daily buses departing to Santa Catalina (Duration 2 hours). The current schedule has departures from Soná to Santa Catalina at 5:15am, 11:00am, 01:00pm, 3:00pm and 5:00pm.

You can also take a taxi from Soná to Santa Catalina for around $30.00 – $40.00 (USD).

The bus ride from Panama city to Santa Catalina will take approximately six hours.

FROM DAVID:

BY CAR:

Option 1. When you leave the city of David, drive on the Interamericana highway, until you reach a check point for Inmigration in Guabala. Immediately turn right afterwards and drive about 79 kilometers. You will pass the town of Sona, pass the Tribiqui River Bridge, until you see the DELTA gas station. Turn right for Santa Catalina

Option 2. To reach Santa Catalina from David, take the road from the Interamericana Highway via Las Palmas – El Maria – Soná. In order to find the unmarked turnoff from the Interamerican Highway, you will look for kilometer marker 314. First, you will see kilometer marker 319 in the small villages of El Piso and El Macano. On the right side you will then see kilometer marker 314 and a small bus stop with a painted roof that says, “Las Palmas 11.5 km.” Turn right and follow the road through Las Palmas and El Maria to Soná. You will pass the town of Sona, pass the Tribiqui River Bridge, until you see the DELTA gas station. Turn right for Santa Catalina

Driving from David to Santa Catalina will take about four hours.

BY BUS:

At the border Pasao Canoas, catch a bus to David Bus Terminal. Regular every 30mins.  Approximately 1 hour.

At David Bus Terminal, catch a large bus for Panama City, stopping at Santiago El Piramidal Bus Terminal. In Santiago change to the local bus terminal (taxi $2.00), and catch the bus to Sona (last bus is at 6.00pm every 30mins).  You could even spend the night in Santiago.

From Soná take one of the five daily buses departing to Santa Catalina (Duration 2 hours). The current schedule has departures from Soná to Santa Catalina at 5:15am, 11:00am, 01:00pm, 3:00pm and 5:00pm.

You can also take a taxi from Soná to Santa Catalina for around $30.00 – $40.00 (USD)

What to Do There

1. SNORKEL OR DIVE TOUR OF ISLA COIBA: One of the best places in the world to see whale sharks and also just epic marine life in general is Isla Coiba. The easiest way to visit the islands of the Coiba National Marine Park is to take a full day long snorkeling tour. This tour takes you to three of the best snorkeling spots in the park and also brings you to the beach of Isla Granita de Oro and the beach outside the ranger station on Isla Coiba. This is a great way to experience Coiba’s 760 species of fish, 23 species of whales and dolphins, and 33 species of sharks, especially if you are short for time or do not have your diving certification. The snorkeling spots still allow you to see many species of fish and sharks, although diving would definitely give you a closer hand look at these incredible species. We easily saw multiple species of sharks, sea turtles and huge schools of fish on the snorkeling locations.

2. KAYAK TO ISLA CATALINA: Isla Catalina is a tiny little island visible just across from Playa Santa Catalina. This island has a rocky side facing out towards the open ocean and a long white sandy beach on the side facing back towards Santa Catalina. This is probably the best beach around town because it has the most white sand (all the others are dark brown) and is less visited because of the effort you have to put in to reach it.

3. TAKE A TRIP TO CEBACO ISLAND: Cebaco Island is a small island located off the coast of Santa Catalina. Most people take a day trip to Isla Coiba to snorkel and see the marine life, but very few people make it to Isla Cebaco. This island has one hotel and only 300-500 locals living on it, spread out in a few small communities around the north of the island. It is part of the buffer zone of Coiba Island National Marine Park and is itself over 8000 hectares in size. Once on the island, you will be almost exclusively to yourself! The island has a dramatic rocky coastline, white sand beaches, trails zig zagging across the island, ocean side caves, and a plethora of marine life including dolphins, whale and sting rays. This is the place to go to if you want to feel like you just discovered a new island and have it all to your own.

Where to Stay

Hotel Santa Catalina - The nicest hotel in Santa Catalina by far. It also has a very nice restaurant and bar on the property, as well as an infinity pool overlooking the ocean. There is a popular point in front of the hotel where surfers come to surf at sunset. This is a great place to stay if you plan on surfing a lot or you want to be able to watch the sunset over the ocean from an infinity pool. Higher cost but not terribly expensive given the quality of the hotel.

Bodhi Hostel - One of the nicer hostels in town. Has almost all private rooms that share a communal living room and bathroom spaces. No Wifi.

Hostel La Vieja Panaderia - A small budget hotel located over the top of a breakfast restaurant/bakery. Very basic rooms and cheap. The bakery packed us to-go lunches multiple days and they have a very good breakfast and amazing bread and pastries.

Deseo Bamboo Ecolodge - An eco-lodge located farther out in the jungle. The lodge has unique bamboo bungalows, a restaurant, and relaxed earthy vibes.

Oasis Surf Camp - Very rustic hostel vibes on the beach on Playa Estero. This is a great place for surfers as it’s right in front of a very popular surf spot. This hostel is SUPER basic and cheap.

Rancho Estero - A budget hotel overlooking Playa Estero. This is a great place to stay if you want to be towards the Estero side of Santa Catalina. It overlooks the ocean, has access steps down to the beach, and a restaurant and bar on site.

Where to Eat

Pescao Restaurant - The high end restaurant at the Hotel Santa Catalina. Offers breakfast, lunch, dinner and unparalleled views of the ocean. $$$$

La Vieja Panaderia - A great breakfast and lunch spot with crepes, fresh baked bread, coffee, pastries and sandwiches. $

Al Mamita at Villa Coco - A unique and cute blue open air restaurant on the property of Villa Coco. This restaurant serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a menu that changes daily. $$$

Pinguino Cafe - A small open-air restaurant at the far end of town towards Playa Catalina. It overlooks the ocean and serves up fresh seafood. $$

Restaurante Escencia at Buena Vida - A great breakfast and lunch spot with unique tile mosaics across the floors and walls. More health conscious with vegan and vegetarian options. $$

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