Tips for Traveling to Santa Fe, Panama - What to Know Before You Go
by Rebecca Hollman
updated October 15, 2020
Santa Fe, Panama
Santa Fe is a small, mountainous town in the middle of Panama. It is the closest town to Santa Fe National Park - Panama’s largest national park. This remote town is super small and quiet but offers access to nature like many waterfalls and stunning hikes. This is a great town that not many tourists make it to and so it feels like it’s its own jungle paradise.
What to Know
LANGUAGE: The language of Panama is Spanish. I would highly recommend trying to learn at least basic Spanish before traveling to Central America. Being able to order at a restaurant, or ask for the right bus, etc. will take you very far. A lot of towns in Panama are touristy and therefore a lot of locals speak English but Santa Fe is NOT one of those towns.
CURRENCY/BANKS/ATM: The currency of Panama is technically a Balboa, but it is exactly equivalent to the US Dollar. Everywhere in Panama accepts US Dollars and it is very rare to see Balboas (except sometimes with coins). There is no need to exchange your money for Balboas. ATMs (cajeros automaticos) seem to be in short supply in Panama. There is no ATM in Santa Fe. Expect to pay for everything in Santa Fe in cash only. There are very limited restaurants and almost no grocery stores.
WEATHER: Santa Fe is tropical. Expect rain. Panama technically has rainy and dry seasons but they alternate between rainy and dry more than once per year. Now with global warming, the seasons have become pretty unpredictable so it’s best to just expect at least some rain. The weather in Santa Fe is much cooler than on the coast because Santa Fe is higher up in the mountains. Santa Fe has an average day time temperature between 70-75 degrees all year long and it gets down to 55 every night. Definitely bring a rain jacket for the Santa Fe hiking trails. However, when it was hot it was boiling hot. Expect a bit of everything really.
GETTING AROUND: You don’t need a car to get around and see the attractions. The local bus system is split into three buses. Guabal, Santiago and Santiago Alto. These three buses will drop you at pretty much every adventure, hike, and waterfall on this list. There is, of course, some walking involved when it is a DIY adventure.
SAFETY: For the most part, Panama is safe. Santa Fe is no exception but you just need to be conscious of yourself. If you are walking around at night visibly drunk, then someone may pick pocket you, etc. Just don’t be stupid. Santa Fe is a very small mountain town with few tourists so it is more safe than many other popular tourist destination areas.
INTERNET ACCESS: The WiFi is very rough. Expect to have no service in the town at all and maybe some very weak wifi at your hotel or hostel. Plan in advance for this and plan accordingly! Screenshot all your information about hikes/routes/etc. at your hotel before heading out into town.
How to Get There
FROM PANAMA CITY:
The easiest way to get to Santa Fe is by car but it is also possible to get here via bus. Taking a local bus would probably cost around $10 USD in total from Panama City. In Panama City at the main Albrook bus terminal, find the bus going to Santiago. Here you will have to get off and transfer to another bus heading to Santa Fe. The bus from Panama City to Santiago is 3 hours 10 minutes and leaves every 30 minutes (and should cost roughly $7-10 USD). The bus from Santiago to Santa Fe is 50 minutes and leaves every 30 minutes (and should cost roughly $2-6 USD).
1) From Panama City to Santiago Terminal
There are two bus lines that go from the Gran Terminal in Panama City to Santiago. They are located right next to each other, and alternate with departures every 1/2 hour, so just take the one with the earliest departure. (You buy your ticket at the counter- The two companies are called SANPASA and Expreso Veraguense, so look for those two names above the ticket counter) The buses are air conditioned and some have TV. It will cost $9 /pp. You will be directed into a waiting room (no one actually waits there), then through a turnstyle, where you must deposit a nickel per person – exact change required. Then someone from the bus will help you with your luggage. You will have one rest stop enroute to grab food or go to the bathroom (Beware, no toilet paper in bathrooms). The bus trip should take about 3.5 hrs. You will arrive in the front passenger drop off area of the Santiago terminal.
What to do in the Santiago Terminal: Get cash. Get something to eat/drink.The Santiago bus terminal is pretty small. You can get cash at the ATM machine there or across the street at the supermarket called Super Carne. This will be the last ATM you see in a while.
2. From Santiago Terminal to Santa Fe
From Santiago, go from the front drop off area to the back departure area (20m), where you can see buses. You will take a smaller bus with a capacity of about 30 people, called a coaster (departures every half hour) to Santa Fe. The cost will be $2.90 pp. On this bus, you will pay when you get off. (The Panama-Santiago bus will leave you in the front of the Santiago terminal, and just walk between about 20m to the other side to where all the buses are lined up). The ones that leave for Santa Fe are located to the left, as you’re facing the buses, near the end and leave 6am-6pm. On arriving in Santa Fe, stay on the bus until you reach the end of the line – the building for the Terminal.
*Other Transportation Options*
Taxi from Santiago to Santa Fe (approx $50-$60 one way)
Private Transport from Panama City (approx $300 one way)
Car Rental in Santiago (Thrifty, Economic) If you don’t want to drive in Panama City, I don’t blame you. You can rent a car in Santiago. I recommend making online reservations beforehand. After getting off the bus at the terminal, take a taxi (they will be lined up where you get off) to the rental store.
What to Do There
1. HIKE CERRO TUTE: Cerro Tute is the largest peak in the area and the most serious hike to attempt. It is not an overtly difficult hike in terms of physical ability but the trail is not marked at all and so it can be very confusing to find and stay on. The total walking distance is about 5-6 hours. The hike isn’t too difficult until you get close to the top when a little scrambling is required. The views at the top are stunning and probably some of the best in Panama. You have the view of Santa Fe and the mountains on one side and a view of the valley on the other side.
2. HIKE TO ALTO DE PIEDRA WATERFALL: This trail is about 4.5 km bordering the Western arm of the Santa Fe National Park and approximately 300 meters above the main town. This makes the Alto de Piedra have a very pleasant microclimate, even colder than the adjacent areas. Wildlife and cloud forest’s common flora surround you all the way until you find the pristine waterfalls hidden in the thick rainforest vegetation. It takes 3-5 hours roundtrip to get to the series of these 3 waterfalls. Expect to see birds, butterflies, amphibians and common rainforest flora like orchids and bromeliads.
3. TAKE A GUIDED NATURE WALK AT NIGHT: Take a guided night walk through the jungles of Santa Fe National Park at night to see all the unique nocturnal animals that might be waiting around every corner. Edgar (a tour guide out of Qhia Hostel) regularly takes night walks into the park for $25 USD. The transport is included in the fee of $25 per person and we rode in the back of the pickup truck in the dark. We walked for about 1.5 hours total admiring all of the amazing creatures along the way.
4. HIKE TO LAS GOLONDRINAS WATERFALLS: Las Golondrinas is the coolest waterfall in Santa Fe. The neat part is that the waterfall is only a 20 minute hike in from the trailhead. The trail is very clear to follow and has handrails in some points. However, because of the conditions, it is very muddy and you will get wet and dirty on this trail. There are technically three waterfalls along the trail - the first is a small waterfall only a few steps from the road. The second is a fatter, cascading waterfall (pictured above) and the third is a tall, skinny waterfall.
Where to Stay
La Qhia Hostel - Small chalet style hostel up in the jungle. Offers single rooms or dorm rooms with 6 bunks. The hostel offers lots of tours and guide information.
Hotel Anachoreo - Lovely small hotel with unique rooms overlooking the surrounding hills. Stays include free breakfast and one of the only restaurants in the town of Santa Fe is on site serving up Thai and Cambodian style food.
Coffee Mountain Inn - Another small hotel in the jungle, this lodge is run by a couple who also do overnight backpacking trips, coffee tours, and night walks.
Where to Eat
Hotel Anachoreo - A restaurant and hotel run by two Thai sisters serving up delicious Thai food. The only nice sit-down restaurant in all of Santa Fe. This is also one of the best hotels to stay at in town as well.
Restaurant Dorado - A typical local restaurant serving up cheap, classic Panamanian food for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
IMPORTANT TO NOTE: There are very limited food options in Santa Fe! There are no supers, minisupers, mercados or anything in the whole town so you can’t even purchase snacks to get by. Please plan accordingly!! I would highly suggest staying in a hotel or hostel that offers breakfast and bringing lots of snacks with you into town. There are two small local tipico restaurants and they only take cash and have hours that change slightly everyday.
